Chocolate
was discovered, or perhaps, developed by the Olmec in what is today south-east Mexico, and their word, ‘kakawa’
gave us our word, ‘cacao’. Chocolate beans are the seeds of the
cacao tree. The Mayans in the central South American rainforests 'inherited' from the Olmec their knowledge ofchocolate and the earliest archaeological evidence of cacao use dates back to almost 3500 BCE in sitesrelated to the Mayo-Chinchipe culture in
modern-day Ecuador, although the generally accepted date for the
beginning of the history of chocolate is around 1000 BCE when the cacao trees grew wild.
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Mayan farmer with his precious chocolate implements |
The Maya, the first civilisation to include
‘cacao’ in its hieroglyphics, used their cherished
chocolate in official ceremonies and religious rituals such as
community and religious feasts, weddings, funerals, and also for
medical purposes. Both the cocoa and its associated vessels and tools
were considered societally precious gifts and objects, so important
that cocoa was only allowed for elite male consumption as the
stimulating effects of drinking it were considered unsuitable for
commoners, women and children. When drunk by the elite at banquets,
chocolate was always served at the end of the meal as a digestif.
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Achieving the highly-prized 'brown foam'' |
The
Aztecs, following the Mayans, inherited a rich legacy of
chocolate-making and consumption from them and other Meso-American
societies, and considered their chocolate as gifts from the gods, one
of their most precious drinks, luxurious and sensuous, fit only for
the elite such as royalty, nobility, priests and the long-distance traders,
the
pochteca, who were among the society’s aristocrats.
Commoners who managed to consume chocolate, would face execution.
Cacao had to be transported into central Aztec land instead of grown
there, because of the prevalence of seasonal frosts and the
pochteca
transported cacao across swathes of Aztec territory, carrying 24,000
beans weighing 50/60 pounds on their backs. Most of the beans were
imported from Soconusco, conquered by the Aztecs for its cacao; the
conquered inhabitants were then required to pay tribute to the Aztec
conquerors in cacao. An exception to the ‘
no commoners’
rule, was soldiers for whom chocolate ‘pellets’ or wafers formed
from ground chocolate, were included in their rations. The Aztecs
also offered their chocolate as tributes to the gods whence
originated this divine substance.
To make
chocolate, the beans were fermented, dried and roasted. The Mayans
removed the husks, and pounded the nibs into a paste, with stones
[metate] ground against a stone surface [mano] built
over a fire. This paste was hardened into solid chunks which were
broken up and mixed with water and other ingredients for added
flavour, such as flowers, chilli, honey and vanilla, for drinking.
When this liquid was heated, a fat called ‘cocoa butter’
rose to the surface and was skimmed off. Before serving, the liquid
chocolate was poured between vessels from a height to generate brown
foam, an effect believed highly desirable, then some cacao paste was
added in an emulsifying process. To determine if the chocolate was
high quality, the darkness of the brown foam, the colour of the
bubbles and the aroma as well as the actual flavour of the liquid,
were considered very important.
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Pedro de Alvarado, stylish conquistador, by Tomas Povedana |
The
Spanish conquistadors began to invade South America as early as
1517-19 and waged war on the Aztecs for almost two centuries, until
1697. During this prolonged conflict, Spanish settlers gradually arrived
and the knowledge of chocolate and its value as drink and food, was
gradually dispersed among them and by association, their compatriots
in Spain. It was the Spanish conquistadors who disclosed that the
Aztecs used the coffee bean as currency and noted in 1545 that 30
cacao beans could buy a small rabbit; one could buy a large tomato
and one hundred could purchase a turkey hen. It was claimed that the
stores of Aztec royalty held massive amounts of cacao beans as a
treasury.
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Christopher Columbus and a replica of one of his three ships which set sail from Spain in 1502 |
Even earlier than the arrival of the conquistadors, Columbus and his crew captured a Mayan trading ship off the coast of Southern America in 1502 and they encountered cacao for the first time; he reputedly
found the taste, bitter. He assumed the beans were a type of almonds and shipped them back, unknowingly to Spain. Hernan Cortes tried the cacao drink in 1544 and sent the beans back to Spain where his contemporaries too were rather wary of
the bitterness of cocoa and added sugar. It was first introduced to the Spanish court where, mixed with sugar, honey, and vanilla, it became the fashionable drink for aristocratic families,
The Spaniards kept their delicious discovery a secret from the rest of Europe for nearly a century but due to the colonial expansion of
the Spaniards and Portuguese, and later the Dutch, chocolate did eventually reach Europe becoming a fad which swept through the continent. In a slight echo of the Mayans' restricted social availability of cacao, only the European nobility and elite could afford the beverage which used two very expensive imports: cacao and sugar! It is interesting to note that although chocolate was all the rage in
Europe, it remained only a drink until the 1800’s when the
technology of the industrial revolution helped transform chocolate
from liquid form into solid bars and mass production made the
delicacy affordable to the masses. Spain was one of the countries at
the forefront of this industrialization and chocolate has been an
important part of their culture and economy for centuries.

Hot chocolate showed up in a painting for the first time in the 17th century. Here we can see Infanta Maria Josefa of Spain, daughter of the Spanish King Charles III, portrayed with her two favourite things: her puppy, and a fashionable cup of hot chocolate.
Below is a small cavalcade of chocolate-related portraits giving a nod to the centuries-old love affair of Europe and chocolate:
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Ca' Rezzonico. La Cioccalato del Mattino |
Pietro Longhi |
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Hot Chocolate Raimondo Delgrado |
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La Chocolatiere Jean-Etienne Liotard 1754 |
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Edwardian advertisement |
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Advertisement 1904 |
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Fry's famous advertisement . Early 20th century |
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Spanish menu board, Costa del Sol Contemporary. |
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Advertising postcard 1910 |
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Cacao in transit; Ivory Coast |
Latin America is still known for its high quality chocolate and diverse flavours. In 2022, the regions produced over a million metric tons of cocoa beans with South America producing about 87% of the total. Ecuador is the leading producer in the region and was acknowledged as among the top cocoa prodiucers worldwide on 26th June 2024.
Aftertaste:
The reason for this potted history of chocolate is simply that I recently overheard a small child asking his mother in Abbeygate Street, 'Has chocolate always been here?' Even for a curious toddler, this was a profound query! And I sympathised with the mother's vague assurances that she thought it probably had as I began to wonder if indeed chocolate HAD always been around. I now notice from my small research that there is even a number of books on the topic covering around 1000 years of history. Which is as near to dammit to 'always'.
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Research. |