"A city more neatly seated the Sun never saw, so curiously doth it hang up a gentle descent, with a little river on the east side; nor a monastery more noble, whether one considers the endowments, largeness or unparalleled magnificence. One might think even the monastery alone, a city: so many gates it has, so many towers, and a church, than which nothing can be more magnificent; as appendages to which, there are three more, of admirable beauty and workmanship, in the same churchyard."
John Leland, describing Bury St Edmunds Abbey in 1539, shortly before it was destroyed.
Before England was unified under one king, Bury St Edmunds (then known as Beodricsworth) was in the kingdom of East Anglia. East Anglia was converted to Christianity in the reign of Sigeberht (c.630–40), who was said to have retired to a monastery. Not long afterwards he was killed when his kingdom was attacked by Penda, King of Mercia. Later generations believed that the monastery he retired to was at Beodricsworth.
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| Hellesdon Parish Church Built in the 15th century. |
Edmund was a Christian king of the East Angles who reigned from about 855 to 869. Little is known of his life, other than that Danes invaded his kingdom in 869 and killed him. Within a generation of his death, he was revered as a martyr. Around 985–8 a French monk, Abbo of Fleury, wrote an idealised life of St Edmund, portraying him as a saintly ruler who died for his faith. Abbo describes how Edmund was tied to a tree, shot full of arrows and then beheaded. When supporters went looking for his body, they found a wolf guarding the head at a place called Haegelidun and recent research has identified its possible location as a field formerly called Hellesden Ley, about 6 miles from Bury. Edmund’s remains were moved from their original burial place to a new church at Bury at some point between about 889 and 945. A large wooden church was built to house his remains, and Edmund, King of England gave it large estates ostensibly ensuring its long and wealthy life. However, in 1020 King Cnut (1016–35) sponsored a rebuilding of the church which he felt was necessary! A stone rotunda, which stood until the late 13th century, was added to the wooden church to house the shrine of the saint. A community of Benedictine monks replaced the priests who had served the old church and the first abbot, Ulvius, was consecrated.
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| Artist's impression of Bury St Edmunds's Abbey in 12th/13th centuries. |
King Edward the Confessor (r.1042–66) visited Bury in 1044. He greatly increased the abbey’s privileges, giving it jurisdiction over about a third of the county of Suffolk. This area became known as the Liberty of St Edmund, and within it, the abbot of Bury exercised complete civil authority. The abbey also owned most of the churches in the area. These sources generated large revenues, which made the abbey one of the wealthiest monastic communities in England.
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| Town map of Bury St Edmunds in the time of Abbott Baldwin. 11th century. |
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The Abbey's wealth and newly acquired status inspired Abbot Baldwin to begin rebuilding the church around 1080, on a scale worthy of St Edmund's shrine using fine quality building stone which was brought especially from Barnack in Northamptonshire. In 1095 the first stage, the Eastern arm of the huge new Abbey church, was finished and St Edmund's remains were ceremonially transferred from the old rotunda to a shrine there.
After Baldwin's death in 1097, the Eastern arm of the church was extended, making it longer than that of Norwich Cathedral, suggesting that the extension was done in a spirit of competition. Certainly, it was gigantic as it towered over King Cnut's round church. Work on the church then continued from east to west with the nave of the church built as far as the West front under Abbot Anselm.(1121-48) The spectacular west front was finally completed around the turn of the 13th century under Abbot Samson (1182-1211) who added a great central tower and lower octagonal towers to either side. At just over 500 feet (152 metres) long the church was now the fourth longest in Christendom. Its huge scale testified to the Abbey's great wealth and proclaimed the abbots' pride and sense of independence. The cloisters and the buildings around it were completed in the 12th century and soon afterwards, the abbey precinct was greatly extended blocking one of the major streets of the Saxon town.
Abbot Baldwin had built a large parish church to the west of the abbey church which ultimately meant that the parish church had to be demolished to make way for the new west front! Extraordinarily, Abbot Anselm replaced the vanished parish church with two more churches on the edge of the enlarged precinct which were both rebuilt in the later Middle Ages and survive today; St James as the Cathedral Church of St Edmondsbury and St Mary's as the town's main parish church.
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| Current view of the Cathedral and the Abbey ruins. |
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