 |
View from the Abbey Gardens' bridge over the Lark, near the tennis courts |
W
 |
June 28th Suffolk Flower Flash Angel Hill Unsolicited photo taken by one of the flower girls |
ith
ageing, I mean Serious Ageing, at least, some opportunities arise for
reflection which may, or may not, have been present in earlier days.
I realise that I now have time, space, maturity and inclination to
ponder on Life and present circumstances. Engaging in this process
seems to have developed in me a greater capacity to notice details,
delight more intensely in the visual and truly live in the moment.
I
loved living in Bruges and did not want to leave it but decided that
it was time because of increasing feelings of old age arriving which
came with a desire to live closer to ‘family.’ My youngest lives
in Bury with her daughter so I had visited the town several times but
hadn’t truly appreciated its charms until I began to live here last
February. I have grown to love the place and its many splendid
buildings, gardens, historical features. I have fallen particularly
in love with the Abbey Gardens where I walk practically every day, in
company with many dog walkers, lone walkers maintaining their health,
bird lovers going to listen to the canaries in the aviary, families
en route to the playground and teenagers perhaps going to the tennis
courts or in search of green privacy for a kiss or a smoke!!
 |
St Edmunds' Abbey in its considerable heyday |
I
am quite bewitched by the history of the Abbey with its
architecturally beautiful Abbey ruins to remind of splendours past
and the famous ignominy of Henry V111 who seized the treasures of the
largest Benedictine Abbey in Europe in 1539 and systematically
demolished it to demonstrate his power and control. Between 1536 and
1541 the Dissolution of the Monasteries covered the disbandment of
not only monasteries, but also friaries, convents and priories. Henry
expropriated their incomes and disposed of their assets, often to
fund wars but particularly to accumulate their wealth in his coffers.
The Dissolution abruptly severed the old way of life for perhaps as
many as 12,000 people directly but with consequent indirect negative
effects on surrounding villages and towns like Bury St Edmunds. Henry
did not have a long life but he managed to fill it with destruction,
violence, grudge-filled hatred and countless deaths. It remains a
pleasure to ponder the fact that his sister, Mary Tudor, briefly
Queen of France, then Countess of Suffolk, married in a reputed love
match to Charles Brandon, was first interred in the Abbey when she
died in 1533 aged only 42, then was later transferred to St Mary's Church, [built 1424-46] where she remains, acknowledged and admired as her brother never was.
 |
Mary Tudor & Charles Brandon Duke & Duchess of Suffolk |
 |
En route to the West Front, about to pass the Chapman gravestone |
 |
The West Front built into part of the Abbey ruins |
The
church abuts the Great Graveyard at which I gaze as I pass, savouring
its variety of seasonal green accoutrements. Presently, the
gravestones are totally hidden beneath, and behind, the tallest
nettles and highest, frothiest trembling grasses ever seen! I often
finish my early Gardens walk along the tree-lined avenue leading directly
to the West Front homes built into some of the ruins; another object
of my admiration. At this height of summer, that particular allee is
so thickly arched by the copious leaves on the branches curving to
form a natural arc, that the sensation is of walking within an airy
tall green tunnel. Delightful. Along there I generally nod to the
large gravestone of William and Harriet Chapman who died in the early18th
century; I love their Austenesque names, perfect for any of Jane’s
exquisite novels set in villages and small
communities like Bury St
Edmunds! And following that, I arrive at the first of the West Front
houses which has the most special exterior, perhaps six-sided, though
all are touchingly attractive to the historian’s eye. This little
row of dwellings, created mainly during the seventeenth century by
burrowing into or adding on to, the existing ruins from the 1540s,
using rescued Abbey stones, are both historical and imaginative and
certainly induce a longing within this passer-by!
 |
Wolf in terrifying close-up |
Passing
in parallel to, and in front of, the West Front mediaeval constructions, after glancing to the left to
check the statue of the legendary wolf is still there, poised on the
grass, guarding the Elizabeth Frink statue of St Edmund, I come to another favourite spot; the Rose Garden, supported
financially by the generosity and far-sightedness of John Appleby,
one of th
e few men to have penned any autobiographical account whom I
would love to have met. He was an American pilot who trained other
pilots in celestial navigation and was stationed in Suffolk for the
last few months of WW2 and several months afterwards. He clearly fell
in love with Suffolk, bought a bike and explored as much as he could.
He even learned how to produce brass rubbings with which he became
obsessed! He loved his time here so much that he wrote about it after
he returned home and gifted the royalties from his Suffolk
Summer [1946] to establish and maintain a rose
garden, still here in the Abbey Gardens. His book is still on sale
here though he is, no doubt, long gone. I am always touched with his
writing and with his
clear-sighted generosity.
These
above I experience almost every day and each time, I experience an
active delight and appreciation. And as I pass, I often acknowledge
my good fortune in having a loving family dependably there, for each
other and for me. And I can see why I wake up each day, benedictions
as the French say, intact, understanding why I do wake up happy to
greet the day!
 |
King Edmund, murdered for his faith, holding a cross. Dame Elizabeth Frink |
 |
Rare portrait of Henry in 1509 before power corrupted him. Meynnart Wewyck |
 |
Panorama of Abbey ruins |
 |
Abbey Gardens en fleur |
No comments:
Post a Comment